A Visit to Kerinci

At the end of November, Hielke, our Managing Director, and Sjoerd, our newly appointed Procurement Director, set off from Amsterdam for West Sumatra. Their destination: Kerinci. The purpose of the journey was twofold—to review the progress of Royal Polak Spices’ replanting program and to reconnect with the local partners who make this work possible.

Getting there was an adventure in itself. A 14-hour intercontinental flight brought them to Jakarta, followed by a domestic connection to Padang. By the time they arrived, the sense of distance from home was unmistakable.

In Padang, often referred to as the spice capital of Indonesia, they visited the processing center of one of our long-standing partners. This is where cassia bark arrives from collection points across the region. Inside the facility, the bark is carefully selected, sorted, and packed. Walking through the bustling halls—people moving steadily, product flowing from one stage to the next—it quickly becomes clear why Padang has earned its reputation. Spices are not just traded here; they shape the rhythm of daily life.

From Padang, the journey continued by car toward the Kerinci region. On paper, the distance seems manageable, but reality tells a different story. After eight hours on the road, the surroundings grew increasingly remote. The roads narrowed, the asphalt disappeared, and rocky paths took over as the landscape rose and folded into hills.

Cassia grows everywhere in Kerinci, but not in neat rows or expansive plantations. Instead, the trees are scattered across the land—on steep hillsides, tucked between other vegetation, sometimes just a handful of trees clinging to slopes where it seems almost impossible for anything to grow at all. It is a wild, resilient landscape, much like the crop itself.

Once in Kerinci, Hielke and Sjoerd visited a local collection center. This is where farmers bring freshly harvested cassia bark. Here, the bark is scraped, dried, and cut before continuing its journey. The center is a vital link between the forest and the wider supply chain.

The next stage of the visit led them deeper into the region, to the replanting areas. In 2024 and 2025 alone, a total of 60,000 young cassia trees were planted here. Reaching these sites required a change of transport—cars could go no further, so off road motors took over. The paths were narrow, muddy and remote, winding through forest and hills to places rarely visited by outsiders.

The progress of the replanting program is encouraging. Between 1,000 and 2,000 seedlings have been planted per hectare, with a mortality rate of less than 10 percent. Standing among the young trees, the scale of the effort becomes tangible—not just in numbers, but in the care and patience it demands.

Visiting the fields also created space to meet the farmers involved in the program. The visit was clearly appreciated. Conversations unfolded slowly, marked by pride in the land, the trees, and the work being done. For many, these fields are not only a source of income, but a legacy they hope to pass on.

After inspecting the fields, the journey continued to a cinnamon seedling nursery. Here, new life begins—from twigs and cassia berries that grow into young plants. Once a seedling reaches around 70 centimeters in height, it is ready to be handed over to selected farmers for planting.

Walking through the nursery, Hielke and Sjoerd didn’t just observe—they joined in. Together with the farmers, they planted cassia seedlings themselves. What stood out most was the shared enthusiasm. The farmers spoke with pride about the trees and the future they represent. Cassia may already grow throughout Kerinci, but planting new trees is about continuity. A cassia tree takes many years to mature, and replanting today ensures that both the environment and the local economy can thrive tomorrow.

Seeing the work on the ground puts everything into perspective. Replanting is not a quick fix; it is a long-term commitment that requires consistency, trust, and involvement. Standing in the fields of Kerinci, it becomes clear that this commitment is very much alive—and growing.